Saturday, January 30, 2010


So anyway, after the various issues with the car shuddering/stuttering (there must be a more technical word for this!), and after seeing my previous mechanic not really sort it out despite the problem being intermitten over the last few months, I decided to try someone new.

The following things were replaced:

1. Pipe line - Air
2. Fuel filter
3. Fan switch - black
4. Injector nozzle (x4)
5. Injector seat (x4)
6. High tension cable
7. Plugs cover set
8. Ignition coil
9. Spark plugs
10. Fuel pump assy
11. Air cleaner mounting


The problems rested with the injectors. The fuel pump was also leaking which needed replacing.

Generally the car is ok now, which is good. Economy wise, I am hitting about 500-510 km before the the warning light comes on.

Now, the engine doesn't cut out when I am reversing and am making a full turn either direction either.

It does feel good driving the car without a general feeling of 'sian-ness' which comes about when you know your ride is not as smooth or 'flawless' as it ought to be!
Pg61

Thursday, January 28, 2010


Hi all, well the guys at the MB Shop had my Sprinter back in on Friday 30th May and replaced the fuel line and it starts fine now (it was after they replaced the o ring) so the problem was the fuel line and O ring were damaged when fitted at MB when the van was built but has taken nearly three years for this problem to arise.
I hope if anyone else has this problem what I've found may help.
How they picked up on the problem was, I left the van with them overnight and they hooked it up to the computer before they tried to start it. When they did start it and it stalled the computer told them there was no fuel pressure, so they knew where to look from there.
Happy motoring.
Mike (Richo 1953)

Monday, January 25, 2010


Australia
The world's best place to live, according to the Country Brand Index. The highest quality cities at the lowest cost, claims Mercer. From cosmopolitan cities like Sydney, to the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, to the desert of the country's interior, the famously friendly Aussie has created a first-world country with low Asian costs. Check out Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth.

Downside: awfully long flights back to the U.S.

Aperture: 22
Shutter Speed: 30s
ISO: 100
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Spot (supposed to be Pattern)

Monday, January 11, 2010


Hobart's actually a really nice place to study, minus the hilly terrain. But if you're into partying and the really happening night scene elsewhere, you might be a little disappointed. Coming from Singapore, I sure was but I have been a little too preoccupied with uni to really bother much apart from the lack of late night munchy places around.

I'm grateful for really friendly and approachable lecturers who make an effort to know everyone's names and you can definitely just rock up to them and ask questions.

The cases we have every week sort of helps us consolidate our learning and prepares us for what's ahead. I think the live cases in 2nd yr are a really good way to introduce us into the clinical aspect of medicine.

The ethnic mix is really good to be honest. I'm asian too and everyone's been absolutely fantastic and I just adore my year group.

I can't compare UTAS with the other unis just because I have no idea what it's like there apart from the occasional whining from my other friends so I'm probably not the best person to compare unis.

If not for anything, 5 years is better than having to spend an extra year. As if 5 wasn't long enough. LOL!

Location: Singapore
Studying: UTAS MBBS III
Sex: Female


I am a high school student who hopes to begin studying medicine in 2011, so can't really help you on the UTas stuff, but I have, however, lived in both Brisbane and Hobart so I can give a bit of info on that topic.

I find that Hobart is a really nice place to live, it may be smaller than Brisbane, but that will only be an issue if you convince yourself that it will be, I personally think living in a smaller city is nicer. Also I think the way that Hobart is so well surrounded by water is really nice, and is a nice touch.

I would say that unless you really want to stay in Brisbane, studying in Hobart would be great

Location: Hobart
Studying: TCE Year 11

i've just heard that UTAS is ridiculously hard to get into for interstaters (only 20 spots or something), so congrats on getting in! I didn't think they released offers yet, only rejections, so could you maybe tell me when you got the offer and just a summary or what it said? seems like i got rejected

Location: Sydney
Sex: Female

Heh, I could be wrong, but I *think* she means to ask what the group is that runs the UTAS medical student society...?

If so, it's TUMSS (Tasmanian University Medical Students' Society)

I think you'll find that most people are indeed very nice individuals, but Hayden's right in saying that there are some a-holes around :P. Not that I have any problems with anyone personally, but there definitely are feuds between certain others.

Location: Melbourne
Studying: MBBS II
Sex: Male


What happens if you don't get an offer OR a rejection? Does that mean they'll offer you a place when the people that already got offered places reject it? UMAT was 213, if that helps.

UMAT 2009: 65+60+88 = 213

Location: Sydney
Studying: HSC 2009
Sex: Female

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Basic Considerations

Inverters or Non-Inverters?

Some sales people will tell you that aircons using non-inverter technology are more reliable and/or cheaper to maintain and repair than inverter aircons. Or that R22-based aircons cost less to maintain because the R22 refrigerant is cheaper to refill than the new R410A refrigerant.

Don't believe them.

Inverter technology today is highly advanced and compressors with inverter operate more efficiently and at lower energy costs. Rather than repeat what the experts are saying, I'll give you the links so you can learn why you should buy aircons using inverter technology:

Daikin

Airecontrol

Coolserve


R22-based or R410A-based Aircons?

This is a no-brainer: go for the newer R410A-based aircons. Why? Simply because whether you like it or not, R22-based aircons are being phased out! The dealers know that, and whether they admit it or not, they have to unload R22-based aircons on unsuspecting and ignorant consumers, otherwise they will incur huge losses on unsold old stocks. So they tell you half-truths like "...oh, the R410A types are more expensive to refill... R410A-aircon costs more to repair.. etc, etc..."

Sure, they may be more expensive to refill initially, but as times goes on with the phasing out of R22-based aircons by 2015, it will be prohibitively expensive (or even impossible) to get R22 liquid refrigerant for your R22-based air cons!

So don't be conned!


Cooling Capacity

OK, once you have decided what type of air-con you want to install, you need to know what sort of cooling capacity is required to cool down your space, be it the bedroom, dining, study or living room, etc.

Some dealers have their own formulas. Obviously the volume of the space, rather than simply the area, and outside ambient temperature, play a part in determining the cooling capacity required, but the following rule of thumb seems to work for me:

Area (Length x Width) X 65 = BTU/hr

E.g. Room size 10ft X 10ft = 100ft2 X 65 = 6,500BTU/hr.


Placement of Fancoil and Compressor

Usually the location for the compressor is pre-determined for you if you live in a HDB flat. If not, the following energy-saving tips may help you decide on the placement of the compressor:

NEA Website

In my case, my flat was built in the 1980s when an aircon ledge was not provided for in the basic design of the apartment, and so I had to decide where to place the compressor. I could place the compressor outside the MBR, for which HDB had provided a cut-out hole in the wall. However, I decided to site the compressor below the window in the dining room. That way we would not be disturbed by the sound of the compressor operating in the night outside the bedroom window. Moreover, the dining room location was less exposed to direct sunlight and more "centrally" located to all the fancoil units. This resulted in a shorter trunking (read: less heat loss, more effective cooling) between the fancoils and the compressor.

Some have advocated placing the fancoil so that the cool air does not blow directly on the occupant(s). This is bad advice! Very bad advice indeed. You know what? I site the fancoil so that the cold air blows directly onto the occupants who wanted cooling!

The purpose of installing an aircon is to cool down the room quickly and effectively, and then to maintain the room at an optimum and comfortable level i.e. neither too hot nor too cold. If the air con doesn't blow directly at the space you want to cool, but instead blows the cold air somewhere else, it will take a longer time before the room becomes comfortably cold enough for you.

In the past, aircons did not have vanes that automatically direct the airflow around the room, so that once the room has cooled down, cold spots would develop as the aircon continued to blow directly at the same spot in the room.

Or even where the vane swung from side-to-side, the occupants would feel frigid and uncomfortable when the cold air continued to blow on them after the room has become cold. This was because there was no mechanism to reduce the airflow automatically and to reset the room temperature automatically once the room has cooled down.

Today, however, air cons are designed with a host of new innovations: not only do aircons have vanes that swing left and right, they also rotate up and down. And some are linked to fan motor speeds: to "push" out a higher or lower volume of cold air as the occasion warrants it.

I mounted my Starmex, for instance, directly above the headboard in the MBR. Now, with this placement, if I feel uncomfortably hot as I go to bed, I could turn on the aircon, and it will immediately shoot out a direct blast (because I had set it so) of cold air to cool me down fast as I lie on the bed. Refreshing!

Few minutes later, after my body has cooled down, I will set the remote control to "I Feel.." auto operation mode. That automatically sets the aircon to produce the optimum room condition for sleep with a one-touch operation. And I could not hear any motor sound from the fancoil, only feel the cool air. Amazing!

Energy Efficiency

Of all the major appliances in the home, aircons and refrigerators consume the most energy in the monthly electricity bill. Half to two-thirds of the energy consumption of a typical household in Singapore goes to operating air-conditioners and refrigerators, hence households are urged to choose energy efficient appliances when buying such goods. According to the National Environment Agency, a household choosing a 3-tick rather than a 1-tick air-conditioner can save about $500 annually through reduced electricity consumption.
The Tick Rating is defined by the NEA as follows:

Air-conditioners

Type Minimum COP 100%1 (W / W)
No. of Ticks 0 1 2 3 4
Casement, window, single-split (non-inverter) <> > 2.5 > 2.78 > 3.2 N/A
Multi-split (non-inverter) <> > 2.64 > 2.92 > 3.34 N/A
Split type (inverter)2
•COP100%
•Weighted COP 3
N/A<> N/A> 2.64 N/A
> 2.92 > 3.06
> 3.34 > 3.34
> 3.76
1 COP 100% is defined as the ratio of total cooling capacity to effective power input at full load cooling capacity
2 For split (inverter) type air-conditioners, the model shall meet both the minimum COP 100% and weighted COP3 Weighted COP = 0.4 x COP 100% + 0.6 x COP 50%

Insulation

Ever wondered why there is condensation on aircon trunking inside the home?

If the insulation material used to cover the copper pipe is not effective or thick enough, water will condense around the plastic trunking in the home as the climate here is very humid and hot all-year-round.

The dealer knows about the condensation problem. But instead of doing a proper aircon installation, some dealers use inferior or inadequate insulation foam knowing the consumer will experience the condensation problem subsequently.

This is outrageous!

Every consumer, I believe, has the right to expect an air con to be installed correctly and properly to meet local environmental and climactic conditions. And that includes proper insulation so that water condensation problems do not occur on the trunking. If a dealer uses substandard materials during installation, and there is water condensation on the trunking, the dealer should rectify and correct the installation.

Far from it -- instead of admitting responsibility, the dealer is quick to lay the blame on the consumer. The dealer will brazenly tell the consumer that because he did not agree to pay for thicker insulation material, inferior insulation material was used, resulting in condensation on the trunking!!

And so, in the absence of strong consumer protection laws here, consumers have no choice but to timidly pay up to the dealer blackmail.

What will dealers think of next to inflate profits? Extended warranty? Thicker copper piping? Leakage prevention?

So like everyone else, I paid up meekly for 1/2-inch Armaflex insulation foam because I know full well the consequences of not having the proper insulation foam for my aircon trunking. But not before I checked that I got what I paid good money for.

Indeed, I found that Armaflex is the registered trademark of Armacell, the world's leading producer of insulation foam. Armacell is the global market leader in foams technology. The company invented Armaflex®, the world's best known and most trusted trademark in elastomeric foam insulation. With more than 50 years of experience in foams, Armacell manufactures foams and expanded rubber products for automotive, industrial, sports, leisure and packaging industries -- in addition to mechanical insulation.

Class '1' Armaflex (Fire Performance, BS 476 Part 7 1997) is a dust free, fiber free CFC & HCFC free (ozone depletion potential of zero), flexible, black, closed cell, elastomeric nitrile rubber insulation providing a highly efficient method of controlling condensation and insulating against both heat loss and heat gain.

Installation

Before you call in the aircon installers, you should study your apartment interior to decide where and how you want to run the trunking. This is important particularly for those living in flats where the trunking is exposed and not concealed behind a partition board or wall.

To minimize the risk of water flowing back into the fancoil unit and dripping onto the floor, I generally prefer to run the trunking along the bottom near the floor line. You should also check that the installer uses a water or spirit level to ensure the proper gradient of the piping so that water flows properly to the drainage outlet in the bathroom.

To minimize heat gain, the fancoil units, where it is practical to do so, should be sited as near as possible to the compressor.

Finally, place the fancoil so that the blower fan blows directly into the area you wish to cool. A central location along the wall near the ceiling is preferred to a corner location in this respect.

Electrical Issues

Older flats built by the HDB have a limitation on the amperage of the aircons that can be installed. My flat has such a limitation, and the aircon load is limited to a maximum of 8.5 amperes only.

However, the dealer told me it is unlikely for multi-split units to hit the ceiling on current usage and asked if I was prepared to authorize him to set the compressor maximum current load to 11 amperes. Obviously I agreed because that would give me higher cooling capacity when the occasion demands for it.

Obviously you would need to run the electrical wiring for your apartment before the installer comes to fix up the aircon. Without any source of electricity he would be unable to test the aircon for correct and proper operation after the installation.

Finally, you should locate the 15-amp socket for the compressor anywhere, as long as the socket is near the aircon trunking, so that the cable could run and be hidden inside the trunking itself. Thus I have the 15-amp socket located inside the MBR, although the compressor is placed outside the window of the dining room.

Quality Materials Used

As the materials used will be concealed inside the trunking, check the materials for quality and specifications, such as 1/2-inchClass 1 Armaflex insulator foam, before installation commences. Armaflex is a registered trademark of Armacell, the world's largest and foremost insulation manufacturer.

Starmex multi-split inverter aircon rated 4-Stars for energy usage by Spring Singapore / NEA


Getting down to work


Trunking for Pipes


Drainage pipe : Don't let the installer decide without seeking your direction on where and how to run the drainage discharge pipe. You let them be, and they will simply install wherever and whichever is most convenient for them. In my case, I specifically directed them to install the drainage pipe so that the water is discharged as near as possible to the bathroom drainage hole. What they had wanted to do was to run the drainage pipe to the near end, instead of the far end, of the bathroom. The near end meant less work for the installer, and the water would flow across the bathroom floor to the far end where the bathroom hole was located.

Drainage Pipe

The installer used a blow-torch to soften the plastic pipe (which was pointing upwards!) and bent it downwards so that water will flow smoothly out to the drainage hole.

You don't need to locate the 15-amp socket near the compressor but you need to locate the 15-amp socket along the trunking so that the electrical wire could be concealed in the trunking.


Bedroom: MSXY-GA10VA Starmex 9,000 BTU Inverter R410A Fancoil Unit


Living / Dining Room: MSXY-GA26VA Starmex 26,000 BTU Inverter R410A Fancoil Unit

Posted by GreenCoal at Tuesday, April 15, 2008

The following formula shows how to calculate rental yield by taking into all costs that are often overlooked.

Rental yield in % = (Net Annual Rent Collected / Total Cost of Property) x 100 %

(Net Annual Rent Collected = Total Rent Collected - maintainence cost, property tax, property agent cost, income tax, vacant cost etc)

(Total Cost of Property = Price of Property + Stamp Duty + Legal fees + Renovation + furnishing)

Example:-
If you bought a property for $460,000 (inclusive of all costs),
you rent it for $2800/month
and your monthly maintainence is $100,
agent fee is 1 month's rent,
amortised furnishing cost is $2000/year (i.e. you spend $20k on furnishing and expect it to last for 10 Years so amortised cost= $20,000/10 years),
property tax (10% of annual value) is $3360,
and assuming other costs to be negligible, we have:

Net Annual Rent Collected in $ = $2800x12 - ($100x12 + $2800 + 2000 + $3360) = $24,240

Rental Yield = ($24,240 / $460,000) x 100 = 5.27%
Non Inverter
The compressor and its motor are manufactured to operate at constant speed or single speed only. In simple terms, it is either in the on (Full Power) or off (No Power) mode.
Therefore for Non Inverter, you will actually feel the air conditioner blowing cold air one moment and normal wind at another.
Due to this operating principle, the electrical consumption is higher and the compressor tends to spoil more easily because of the frequent start-stop. And there is no part load capabilities.

1) Orginally, Non Inverter air con uses only one big compressor linking to a few indoor units. Thus no matter how many rooms u use, you are always using the full capacity of the compressor. This is actually very inefficient. For example, the electrical comsumption will be the same when using 1 room and 3 rooms.

2) But as technology improved, most of the Non Inverter air conditioners in the market are using 2 compressors. For example, a System 3 will have 1 compressor of 8500 btu and the other at 12000 btu. The 8500 btu will be connected to 1 indoor unit while the 12000 btu will be connected to 2 indoor units. Therefore when operating 1 room, you will be using only 1 compressor.
** If you are using the 2 indoor units that are connected to the 12000 btu compressor, you will only get max 6000 btu each. **





3) May it be new or old, as long as it is a Non Inverter, you will get the 'cut in' and 'cut out' of the compressor. In other words, everytime the room reaches the pre-set temperature, the compressor will stop working. And when it senses an increase in temperature, it will start running again. Thus through out the night, you will experience the 'start and stop' of the compressor. In addition to that, the temperature will fluctuate as the indoor unit changes from 'COOL' to 'FAN' mode accordding to the 'start - stop' of the compressors.

4) Due to the frequently start-stop of the compressor, more eletricity will be comsumed as more power is needed to start the system all over again whenever it stopped. In addition, the compressor will also have a shorter life span.

5) Most Non Inverter Multi Split Systems have 'standard' combinations. For example, Sys 3 will be 9+9+9. When you required other combinations, you usually have to pay more as it may require a high capacity outdoor unit. And the largest indoor unit capacity for Multi Split System is 12k btu.

advisable do the trunking first (all) but a/c unit installation the last, aft reno. finish all painting job then install the a/c unit
for ease of painting....u dun want ur FCU to be polka dot right? even cover with plastic oso sian.... after install need to do a trial run oso, dun think u want the FCU to suck in all the dust fm wood works.

I've seen GC a/c installation & spoken to two private installers. MBR & bedroom 2 will not be an issue on how they lay the trunking. As for bedroom 3, everyone proposed a different routing method. Goodness, I've yet to decide which is the optimum. GC routed the trunking for bedroom 3 through the kitchen & service yard. Wow, but I won't do conceal of a/c trunking leh. Urgghhhh

when buy Air-Con, remember to buy R410A!!!!!!

NOT R22!!!!!

http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/title6/phaseout/22phaseout.html

URL is from America Government agency. Global agreement to fight climate change, you will have problem to service your Air-Con in future if you buy R22

Monday, January 4, 2010


cannot do trunking thru thick toilet walls, so my aircon guy said to run it thru the kitchen wall (hidden in cabinet) and then hack a small hole at the side of the yard door frame to run the trunking to the yard and then aircon ledge...no need to remove yard door at all. I'm not sure whether the space allowance at the yard door frame is the same for S1 and S2. Mine is S2.

Non Inverter
The compressor and its motor are manufactured to operate at constant speed or single speed only. In simple terms, it is either in the on (Full Power) or off (No Power) mode.
Therefore for Non Inverter, you will actually feel the air conditioner blowing cold air one moment and normal wind at another.
Due to this operating principle, the electrical consumption is higher and the compressor tends to spoil more easily because of the frequent start-stop. And there is no part load capabilities.

1) Orginally, Non Inverter air con uses only one big compressor linking to a few indoor units. Thus no matter how many rooms u use, you are always using the full capacity of the compressor. This is actually very inefficient. For example, the electrical comsumption will be the same when using 1 room and 3 rooms.

2) But as technology improved, most of the Non Inverter air conditioners in the market are using 2 compressors. For example, a System 3 will have 1 compressor of 8500 btu and the other at 12000 btu. The 8500 btu will be connected to 1 indoor unit while the 12000 btu will be connected to 2 indoor units. Therefore when operating 1 room, you will be using only 1 compressor.
** If you are using the 2 indoor units that are connected to the 12000 btu compressor, you will only get max 6000 btu each. **





3) May it be new or old, as long as it is a Non Inverter, you will get the 'cut in' and 'cut out' of the compressor. In other words, everytime the room reaches the pre-set temperature, the compressor will stop working. And when it senses an increase in temperature, it will start running again. Thus through out the night, you will experience the 'start and stop' of the compressor. In addition to that, the temperature will fluctuate as the indoor unit changes from 'COOL' to 'FAN' mode accordding to the 'start - stop' of the compressors.

4) Due to the frequently start-stop of the compressor, more eletricity will be comsumed as more power is needed to start the system all over again whenever it stopped. In addition, the compressor will also have a shorter life span.

5) Most Non Inverter Multi Split Systems have 'standard' combinations. For example, Sys 3 will be 9+9+9. When you required other combinations, you usually have to pay more as it may require a high capacity outdoor unit. And the largest indoor unit capacity for Multi Split System is 12k btu.

mit non invt sys 3 - $1903 (3 x 9000btu)
mit invt sys 3 - $2559 (3x 9000btu)
mit invt sys 3 - $2611 (1 x 12000btu, 2 x 9000btu)
mit invt sys 2 - $2223 (2 x 12000btu)

Best solution is the ID coodinate with Aircon installers with owner presence.
no matter what company (GC,AB,BT or Cs) owners need to do due dilligue and be there..do not just leave them at their own accord. do some homework and know some installation pointers.
the sale person/ supervisor who talk to you maybe not the exact person who installed the aircon. so be there when they installed so there is no chances of error.

" he knows doesnt mean they knows as assumption is the greatest folly of oneself"

met Tommy from Gain City 2day...solved the trunking prob oredi...

He said to drill diagonally up from the aircon ledge wall at just above the MBR toilet window frame into the false ceiling inside toilet and then from there, run trunking straight into MBR and then to the 2 bedrms. Much shorter than the kitchen route!

mine is a s1 unit with open kitchen... and i got a system4 inverter + system1 non-inverter... both toshiba... yup 5 x indoor units

- 24 BTU non-inverter in foyer
- 16 BTU inverter in corridor directly opposite open kitchen
- 13 BTU inverter in MBR
- 10 BTU inverter in Bdrm 2
- 10 BTU inverter in Bdrm 3

trunking quite straightforward...

- 24 BTU yard -> kitchen -> foyer
- inverter units yard -> MBR bathroom -> Bdrm2 -> Bdrm3 -> corridor wall outside Bdrm3

At Home & Living at Expo today and purchased the Mit Ind system 3 invertor aircon from Aircon Gallery by Best Tech. The insulation used is definitely a much better quality than what Gain City showed me.

Viewing of showflat at BLK G #07-81 from 07Jan onwards if anyone is keen to look at how they install & they types of lighting they supply.

Also their guys will be stationed there for a month to oversee all aircon installation issues, if any.

We got a namecard from the GainCity staff who were pasting their adverts about the 'showflat for aircon' (#33-41). called them on Tues afternoon when the unit was not open. The guy say probably "end of the week". Anyone has seen the #33-41 unit with the completed/installed aircon yet?

think around 3.5 k for a fully furnished whole unit is reasonable considering that we got no pool and gym and got ugly grills to block off half of our view. we should price lower than the condo in the nearby area.

i dont think the 4 or 5 room makes much diff to the tenant since they both got 3 bed rooms of the same sizes. only slightly bigger living for the 5 room.

but it makes a diff if you r on the low or high floor.

i think 1K for common room and 1.5K for the master bedroom is the price i will go for if renting out rooms alone. almost all rooms in the city near mrt is priced above 1K.

here are some vicinity rental price guide i found. hope this is useful.
price is based on Sept 09. anyway market demand changes and price range varies but it cannot be too big a difference apart. but looking at the nearby Universal Studio & IR coming to be completed very soon, prices may not be the same again i reckon.
good luck to residents who wish to rent out their units. i believe P@D is going to be very hot... heheee

the median monthly rental for:
The Beacon (1109sf) $4155
Icon (657sf) $3827
Sportiswoode (1270sf) $2350
5rm in Cantonment Close (1184sf) $2350
5rm in Kim Tian Rd (1184sf) $2350

i checked URA and came across Icon median psf is 5.67 which is typical for that area which is also close to P@D. if here can fetch $3 - $5 psf, that's a very very good return. (but i feel for $4 - $5 psf can wait long long.... for that kinda price). cross our fingers. of cos we have to be realistic and also must know what type of property we're living in. its better not to anyhow quote prices 1st for now. people can perhaps observe the vicinity rental and do some calculations

Sunday, January 3, 2010


We will be having a showflat at Blk 1G Cantonment Road #07-81 and will be ready on the 7 January 2009 for viewing. We make it convenient so that u can witness our installation workmanship and the working condition of the air con. We will also be having our sales rep to attend to all your needs. During this promotion we will be giving away free upgrade K flex class 'O' (Italy made insulation) worth $240 on top of the Free gifts so hurry be the next 60 to get this promotion

heard from one of the residents that there is a showflat for gaincity ac in one of the units? 33-41? but must call to view ... i think gain city knows how to do the trunking

Friday, January 1, 2010


MUMBAI, Jan 1 - India will issue visas on arrival to tourists from five countries starting Friday, according to a foreign ministry statement, just days after a plan to tighten some visa rules drew protests.

The visas, for tourists from Finland, Japan, Luxembourg, New Zealand and Singapore, will be issued from Jan. 1 on an experimental basis for a period of one year and will be valid for up to 30 days, the statement said.

Single-entry visas will initially be issued at airports in New Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata, it said